October 30th and 31st – Franz Josef Glacier

I left Christchurch on an early morning shuttle across the South Island of New Zealand to meet up with a hop on hop off bus tour I would travel with for the next several days. There were only about 10 of us on the shuttle; 3 guys who would be joining me on the touring bus and a few random locals and tourists including a 50 something Asian woman from Melbourne whose off color humor and booming laugh brought a smile to my face even before my morning coffee.

The drive across the Island was nothing short of spectacular. This was what you think of when you think of New Zealand. It packs amazingly diversified landscapes into to such a small area. Rolling hills covered with farms packed with sheep give way to rolling foothills covered with craggy boulders and they are backed by the towering snow capped Southern Alps. This stunning landscape also has amazing numbers of lakes and rivers that just add to the majestic sites.

In Greymouth, a small town on the Island’s west coast, we met the bus that we’d be touring with the next couple of days. The coast just adds to New Zealand’s natural beauty as the aforementioned sites continue all the way to the coast. The tour bus was packed full of 20 or so travelers. The bus takes you around to all the must see sites and a few other points of interest along the way. It is a helpful and convenient way to see the country. There are several companies that run such buses, I chose the one that was meant to be slightly older and more mature. However, I immediately knew it would be an interesting ride as I was met on the sidewalk by the driver who was stark naked save a thin rain slick. Apparently he had lost a bet at the bar the night before and had to drive naked into our next stop, he only had the slick on while stopped in the city.

We took our seats and headed off to the Franz Josef glacier. We stopped at a few points of interest and made it there in the early evening. We checked in and booked our glacier hikes for the following morning. I then, before bed, spent some time at the hostel watering hole trying to get to know my new bus mates as I would be spending the following days with them.

We awoke the next morning and headed for the guide center to get geared up for the full day hike up the glacier. We were equipped with protective rain and snow clothing, boots and cramp-ons (metal spikes for the shoes that look like bear traps). The Glacier is truly amazing scene; two sheer forested mountain faces covered in water falls separated by a river of ice 150 meters thick and 12km long.

After a walk to the base of the ice and strapping on the spikes we began our ascent. We separated into groups based on confidence and fitness; I, smart or not, went ahead with group 1. It was a pleasant climb once we got acclimated to walking on the ice and the views were unbelievable. After a couple of hours we reached the ice falls above the ascent where we would find some more interesting features to explore including crevices, ice caves and huge sheer ice faces.

After stopping for a quick snack we came across a crevice between two sheer ice walls and the guides decided we would traverse it. It was tight, no more than 20cm wide and 5 meters long. 2 people tried it before me, 1 succeeded in getting through and one did not. I made an attempt, but could not manage to squeeze my hips through. The rest of the group managed to get through so as stubborn as I am I made another attempt. This time I got high enough to get my hips into the crevice, but as I began to move across my body slipped down. I tried to keep moving, but couldn’t. I tried to go back where I came, but couldn’t. I was stuck. I pushed and pulled with all my strength for a few minutes, but wouldn’t budge. I started to feel my breath quicken and the walls felt ever tighter pressed against my back and stomach; I was starting to panic as hard as I tried not too. It was a terrible feeling and eventually with the help of the guides I was freed from the ice. I was exhausted and physically.

I pulled it together, however, and continued on with the first group. We continued to explore the ice features including some pretty tight ice caves. Given my previous experience it took all the courage I had left to press into them, but I managed and was happy that I made it through. After sometime we began out descent back to the starting point and back to the buses.

Overall the glacier was a great experience in one of the most amazing places on earth. Generally speaking when going on adventures you are supposed to overcome fears, but that didn’t really happen this time. I learned I have a bone to pick with claustrophobia and will have to find a new adventure to help me overcome it.

We returned to the hostel and I treated myself to a large hot meal and a cold beer. Given everything an all around great day.