February 5th – Masada

We made it to the bus well before sunrise to head to the base of Masada, by the time we arrived the first hints of light were beginning to poke over the deserts eastern horizon and a few other buses filled with young energetic tourists both Israeli and foreign were arriving. Along with these other groups we began out ascent in an attempt to reach the top before the sunrise. The walk was to be about 30 minutes up a winding path. It was not difficult, but certainly a consistent uphill climb of loose rocks and stairs, but I had uncomfortable pangs in my empty stomach as I had not eaten anything and had taken a decongestant. The view as more and more light revealed the Judean desert around us was nice and enough to keep my mind off my stomach and eye on the prize. As we approached the summit, two bongo drummers and the sound of a shofar blowing urged me up the final bit. I arrived just a few minutes before sunrise and waited for the rest of the group including my sister to finish the climb. We took time to enjoy the sun and take pictures of the mornings first light.

We then met at the top as a group to talk about the history and significance of the desert fortress. It was improved from a simple outpost to a palatial desert fortress by King Herod of Christ play fame. A microcosm of Roman extravagance and ingenuity complete with baths, restaurants and a cistern full of water diverted from Jerusalem a day and half walk away. The real power of the place however, comes from its importance in a rebellion against Roman rule that would take place some years later. A final stand as their rebellion was quelled in the major cities and outposts, a group of Jews retreated to Masada to resist and wait it out. They converted the fortress into a place suitable for the religious people, converting the pleasure baths into ritual baths and building a synagogue. Eventually the pride of the Roman Empire would be called upon to lay siege to Masada. They would continue to resist however and they forced the Roman Legions into a long hardship into the desert and when the Roman army finally was ready to storm the fortress, the story goes that the all the rebels committed suicide in order to deny the Romans the satisfaction of relieving their frustrations upon entering the fortress.

After a nice walk down the path taking in the desert vista in the full daytime light we boarded the bus to head towards our next activity for the day. We headed to a nature reserve in a desert oasis. Other than the appearance of a trip supervisor who showed up to enforce rules and make me wear real shoes(the shoes were clearly unnecessary and me asking about mandatory shoes would become a running trip joke) the walk was pleasant. It was highlighted by a couple streams and pools as well as a local variety of small antelope and a furry rodent resembling a wombat.

We headed further into the desert for our next activity, spending an evening at a “Bedouin camp.” It was certainly not authentic as it was a permanent location off he highway with large tents made of nylon...it made my previous Mongolian nomad experience seem super realistic in comparison. However, the guy who ran the place was a nice Muslim guy who gave us an introduction to the culture and then we ate a pretty amazing meal consisting of roasted chicken, hummus, veggies and rice. After dinner we started partying by a campfire next to the 40 person tent we'd make home that night. We drank and sang along while a couple trip mates and bus driver played guitar, we even tasted a home brewed anise alcohol that the driver, Lazer, makes. I had a great time and though Cari fell asleep early, I stayed up til late breaking the real ice with people and I felt like it was a social turning point.